best eames lounge chair tall review

eames lounge chair tall review

eames lounge chair tall review

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eames lounge chair tall review


I have never reupholstered anything but I figured the first step must be

to just remove the old upholstery while keeping track of what went where so that I can later reverse the process. Easier said than done.

I began by removing the four hex bolts (3/16 hex key) at

the top and bottom outside edges of the seat and seatback thinking they might somehow release the top and bottom corners and the upholstered seat/seatback sling. The hex bolts came out easily (except one that required a bunch of WD40). This accomplished nothing.

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Puzzled, I turned the chair over and I looked at it more c

arefully to get a better sense of how it works. What I could make out is this: (a) basically, the seat/seatback is a single fabric unit (the “sling”) suspended between the aluminum rails on either side (I will call these the “rails”), (b) the edges of the sling are embedded in a channel in the outside edge of the rails (at right), (c) the rails in turn are affixed to the outside edges of the pivoting platform atop the rolling base unit (the “base unit”) by two hex screws on each side (again, at right – note that one screw is mising in this pic), (d) then a cross-brace (the “strut”) bridges the upper part of the rails behind the seatback holding the rails at a fixed distance apart (pic below).

In effect, the rails are held apart from one another at the base unit and the strut in such a way as to create an enormous amount of tension across the sling which prevents sag when you sit on it.

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So here is what I was working with. Black naugahyde upholstered shell with cream-colored fiberglass. The cover had several scratches, stains, and cigarette burns, and the shock mounts were missing completely.
First step: Rip that shitty upholstery off. Grab a dust mask and go at it like you are pissed. You can be pretty rough on these things with fiberglass being a pretty strong material. Once you get the upholstery off you will arrive at the smelly, frightening sight below (left).

Mold. Cigarette burns. The smell of 40-year old industrial strength adhesive. As tempting as it may be, do not give up now! To get down to the adhesive, I found once again that simply using your hands is the easiest and quickest way to get results. Forcefully rub the foam with your fingers starting at an edge where there is little to no foam. Once you get the right technique it will start coming off pretty quick…

Then you arrive at the scene above (right). I found that using an orbital sander worked GREAT for getting the dried-up glue off the surface of the chair.
Now, so I do not get sued for some idiot getting cancer: Be sure to where a face mask to protect your lungs, along with long sleeves and pants to keep from getting itchy. Fiberglass is not something to play around with. Have you ever installed or removed fiberglass insulation? Same stuff floating around in the air here.

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